Venetian Shrimp with Polenta

Years ago, during a brief hiatus from performing with the Royal Shakespeare Company in London, I decided to treat myself to something special. My partner, Charlie, joined me in London, and we seized the opportunity to hop on a ridiculously cheap flight to Italy. Naturally, Venice was on our itinerary, and at the top of our culinary list was a visit to the much-recommended Osteria alle Testiere—a gem that friends at *Food & Wine* had raved about.

Upon our arrival in Venice, we eagerly attempted to secure a reservation at alle Testiere, only to be met with disappointment. The restaurant was fully booked, and I couldn’t help but feel a pang of regret. However, we were in Venice, after all, and it was impossible to stay disheartened for long.

Taking the advice of seasoned Venice travelers, we decided to get lost in the city’s labyrinthine streets. It’s the only way, they said, to truly experience Venice’s magic. And they were right—our aimless wandering was enchanting. Late in the afternoon, as the sun began to dip, we found ourselves standing outside the shuttered doors of Osteria alle Testiere. My earlier disappointment resurfaced, and I turned to share my woe with Charlie, only to find him missing.

To my shock, I spotted him on his hands and knees, squeezing himself underneath the restaurant’s metal security gate! Horrified, I could only watch as he disappeared inside. Moments passed, and I braced myself for the worst, convinced he was about to be hauled off by the authorities. But instead, Charlie emerged, disheveled but beaming with triumph. It turned out that, if we agreed to eat early and not linger too long, the gracious staff would allow us to be their first customers of the evening.

We hurried back to our hotel to freshen up, then rushed back to the restaurant. That night, we enjoyed one of the best meals we’ve ever had. I ordered *Schie con Polenta*—tiny Venetian brine shrimp sautéed with white wine and garlic, served over creamy polenta. The meal, and the entire evening, was unforgettable, thanks to Charlie’s audacity and the incredible hospitality of the restaurant’s crew.

While jetting off to Venice for dinner isn’t feasible for most of us, you can easily recreate—or at least approximate—that magical meal at home. Although you won’t likely find Venetian gray brine shrimp in the States, our local fishmongers offer excellent shrimp that will do the trick.

To make this dish, prepare a batch of polenta, which is straightforward but does require some attentive stirring. While the polenta simmers, cook some garlic with white wine and stock, then add the shrimp and cook for about four minutes. Swirl in a bit of butter and finish the shrimp with a quick steam.

The key to perfect shrimp is avoiding overcooking—cook them until they’re just turning pink, then stir in the butter and half the parsley. The residual heat from plating will finish the cooking. Garnish with the remaining parsley, close your eyes, and let your mind drift to the canals of Venice, San Marco, the Rialto, and the timeless charm of La Serenissima.